The mastermind behind the wines of J.B. Becker is the mustache-forward Hans-Josef Becker, affectionately called “HaJo” by the importer Vom Boden. When we first sampled HaJo’s Kabinett Trockens, one of our astute tasting pals made the observation that “these wines taste like German Riesling from the ‘70s… in the ‘70s”. They have the snap-crackle of your favorite album on vinyl—a kind of nostalgic, vintage feeling with bold fruit and savory, smoky undertones. Yet, their nervy acidity speaks very much to present day.