Shelter

What’s most relevant is that the husband-and-wife team of Hans-Bert and Silke Wolf are making inspired, delicate and polished Pinot Noirs in a region dominated by heavy, cumbersome, oak-and-alcohol-laden Pinot Noirs that taste, well, often not so much like Pinot Noir. While the reds are the stars, and the focus, of the estate, one should be on the lookout for two Blanc de Noir rarities from Shelter: their still Blanc de Noir is chalky and bracing, doing its best interpretation of some as-yet-undiscovered appellation somewhere between Chablis and Chitry; the sparkling Blanc de Noir (méthode Champenois) is richer and more lavish, yet with plenty of sharp edges and mineral. Both are worth the hunt.

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Baden